23rd July - Captain Billy Landing to 18 kms south of Jardine River Ferry

Nigel says ... Took a long time to de-gunge Winona last night. The chain, gears, brakes, wheels etc were all completely clogged up with orange mud. Rinsed my cycling kit, camelback and bar bag in a bowl - the water turned orange. Ate some very welcome bacon and eggs and got to bed about 2300 hours.

We had a series of debates about what I should do this morning if tthe road conditions were as bad as yesterday. I lay awake and listened to the wind and rain showers and I resolved that I would carry Winona the 2 kilometers or so out of the road works to a firm section and continue the ride from where it was possible to do so. Not to do a section with Winona wopuld mean that there was a gap in the itinerary as far as I was concerned - it was an obstacle I would just hhave to get over the best I could.

We arrived at capt Billy's Junction at about 0930 hours. We were all delighted to see that the graders had improved the conditions going north and that the conditions had dried out sufficiently to at least allow me to wheel the bike. Morale improved dramatically! No carry involved! The road I had dragged Winona along yesterday remained a quagmire of glutinous orange mud and in my opinion was impassable to bikes and probably most motorbikes. Horrible! I pulled on my stinking and mud covered kit by the roadside and set off. I was able to ride very slowly and gingerly through most of the roadworks and was soon out of the other side onto a firm road to give Colin and Gordon the thumbs up. They had waited for me to get through and now set off to see what things were like up to the Jardine River Ferry and to get a cup of coffee.

The route north of the roadworks was initially sandy with bad corrugations in a number of patches. It was also quite undualting and winding. Parts were very narrow - no more than a single lane and I had to be quite careful of traffic which does not slow down. Fortunately the traffic was much less on this road than the main Weipa Road. Later on, the road opened up to a well graded firm surface which in parts was as good as the Bruce Highway and I was able to get along quickly.

After a brief stop for a welcome snack lunch, I pedaled on to the junction with Fruit Bat Falls where I hid Winona in the undergrowth and Colin drove us all up to have a swim. No crocs here. It was a great location. The water was clear and I just dived in with my kit on leaving an orange trail behind me. Gordon took a dip as well taking his pot off for the occasion which he later regretted...

I decided to pedal on until 1600 hours and get as faar as I could to give us the option oof going for the Tip either tomorrow or Sunday. I packed it in for the day some 18 kilometers south of the Jardine River Ferry as I wanted to see Elliot Falls in the light and have a swim. I was also more tired than I realised and needed a break. The humidity takes it out of you. Today I cycled 88 kiloometers (55 miles)

On the way back to camp, Colin and I came across Mick who we met the other day. We watched him cycle through a creek. Very impressive. He joined us tonight for supper.

When we got back to camp, Colin and I left Gordon doing the cooking and went down to the Falls for a dip. We saw a remarkable sight whilst we were swimming - thousands of fruit bats flying from their roosts over the Falls. The sky was dark with bats - something similar to a Hitchcock movie.

Gordon excelled himself at cooking this evening - a really excellent roast lamb with vegetables. It was one of the meals of the trip. I had three helpings - should he be on Masterchef?

Thoughts and comments:

• A man came screaming out of the toilet block this morning saying there was a rat....I was in there earlier and completely missed out on seeing the proverbial shithouse rat.
• Showed Gordon the roadsign that he woulld have slept under last night if Colin had not been with us....He thinks I am joking!
• Gordon talking a lot about hot showers, plasma TV and Masterchef....
• Snack of the day: Junction with the Old Telegraph Track - ham wrap.
• Tune of the day:Today I hummed JC McCall's Convoy a lot - thats a big 10/4!

Can nearly smell the end now. Bamaga and a modicum of comfort tomorrow - although still have to share a room with Gordon. Have not yet decided whether to go for the top today or on Sunday.

Gordon says...

Almost there now. Nigel is doing really well, under very difficult conditions. I wish I was still pedalling, but sitting in the Landcruiser eating Mars bars, and dozing with my pillow, comes a reasonable second, I suppose.

Made the rash decision to go for a dip at Fruitbat Falls. My cast is the type that allows you to take your hand out if necessary. A dumb idea - for two minutes of splashing around, I had three hours of throbbing pain. OK now though.

A fine night sat around eating dinner and drinking wine with a stray long-distance cyclist called Mick. Only one more night under canvas, and then a few days of relative comfort before heading back to see my family - something I'm really looking forward to. I arrive in Brisbane at 7.30 am Wednesday morning, first tutorial at 9.00 am. Jeez ...

I have decided to try and ride from Bamaga to the tip of Cape York on Sunday. I've got my drugs ready ...