25th July - Bamaga to The Tip

Gordon says ...

Since the blog has largely been Nigel's baby, and since this is our last entry, I thought it only fitting that he have the final word - so I'll kick off today.

A bitter-sweet day. We made the tip of the Cape in late morning. It's been a wonderful achievement for Nigel. 42 days of non-stop pedalling. He is one tough monkey, and he has more than earned my respect. It wasn't to be for me, but so be it.

After leaving Bamaga, and 34 kms of the worst road on the entire journey, we got to the end of the track, at which point there is a difficult 15 minute climb over rocks to get to the very top. Nigel wanted to take his bike, which he dragged with him. When we got there, Nigel was mobbed by about 30 tourists who asked him where he had come from, how long it took etc, and took turns queuing up to have their photo taken with him - with Nigel loving every minute. I sat on a rock over to one side. A couple of people came up to me and asked if I had cycled anywhere, since I was wearing cycling gear, but it just seemed easier to say 'no'. A couple of Austrian boys turned up, who had cycled from Cooktown, and they had their pictures taken with Nigel as well, so I wandered back to the beach by myself and had a swim. Like I said, a bitter-sweet day.

That said, this disappointment - tempered with pride in Nigel's achievement - paled into insignificance with what happpened next. After half an hour on the beach, when there was no-one left in the whole of Cape York to congratulate Nigel, he meandered back for a swim, whereupon a women in her fifties came up to him - one of his new-found fan club - and told him he had great quads! That's right, somebody walked right past me, to tell the Pilsbury Doughboy he has good legs. For f..ks sake, when will it end?

Anyhoo .... as for the ride to the Cape itself - a very bad idea, in retrospect. First, I don't think it had the desired effect of giving me closure for the trip. I just felt like an interloper. Second, it hurt like an absolute bastard for 3 solid hours. Terrible. In spite of the drugs. And as if that wasn't enough, in something of a metaphor for the injuries sustained on our trip, we cycled through a swarm of wasps, with Nigel breezing through untouched, and me getting stung on my arm, and then just underneath my eye. As I said ... when will it end?

To my cycling mates in Brisbane - Anthony, Amir, and Big Jim - I cycled 34 kms on the world's crappest road, in agony, on the world's crappiest rented mountain bike, with no brakes, one gear, and one arm ... all without crashing. I am Lance Armstrong. I am John Wayne. You will all call me Lance Wayne next time you see me ... for at least a week ...

OK. Enough of this. I'd just like to make some acknowledgements before I sign off. I'm guessing Nigel will do a much more formal and comprehensive thank you later. So here''s just some personal ones:

1) I can't remember exactly who you are - an amalgam of several people I think - but to whoever told me you could cycle the Cape on a touring bike, with 35 mm tyres, you are a f.....g idiot, and you should never dispense cycling advice again as long as you live. Pratt.

I'd actually like to thank:

• My family. Thanks for the time away. Difficult for all of us, and as I've said before, I don't really think I thought this through. In particular, thank you Belinda.


• Thanks to my friends and colleagues at work. Once again, you've shouldered the burden of my workload ... even more than normal. And thanks to my school, and the faculty, for being so supportive.


• To all the friends who put us up, and were so wonderful - Denise, Jenny, Jim, Mark and Lindy, and even my in-laws, Nikki and Shaun, and Jan


• To everyone who sponsored us. Thank you.


• To all my friends who kept sending messages of support. It really kept me afloat. The offer made by Anthony and Amir, when I first got sick and lost touch with Nigel, to fly down and shield me from the wind for a couple of days, until I caught up with him again, was very special. For two such complete bastards, very out of character ...


• To Colin. I don't care what Nigel says, without you turning up for the Cape, we were totally and utterly screwed. It's been great having you here with us.


• Finally, Nigel ... Hmm ... First the bad: 1) speaking as a philosophy lecturer, there is more to the notion of 'a coherent argument' than a series of assertions and prejudices, delivered with a posh accent and a self-satisfied grin. 2) there is more to Australian cuisine that deep-fried seafood baskets, meat pies, and giant tubs of ice-cream. You should have availed yourself of some of it. 3) You snore. Really really bad. And now the good: 1) I think of myself as a relentlessly happy guy, but you make me look miserable. I've never met anyone so 'up'. Actually, maybe this belongs in the previous section - since it almost doesn't seem natural, and can get on your tits after a while. I'm sure you could achieve the same effect in monkey if you drill the front of their brains. 2) You are one tough guy, a toughness I relied upon on several occcasions. Mind you, see previous theory about monkey brains and drill bits. And finally 3) You have been great company. In 7 weeks, we haven't exchanged a single cross word - in spite of nightly political discussions (oh ... apart from that time you tried to take us down yet another cow-path, just as it was getting dark). When the disappointment of not succeding in the ride has faded, and when my wrist has healed, and I've forgotten how much I missed my family, and how much it hurt everyday ... I'll remember the most important thing ... that we have laughed the length of an entire continent. We have laughed in roadhouses, in pubs, in shade under trees, in tents, in motels, and while we rolled along. Well ... more specifically ... I have laughed at you ... because you are a pompous twerp.

Over and out.

Nigel says.... Peculiar feeling to be writing the blog for the last time and I am still absorbing what we have done.

The final day started normally enough, except I awoke at 0530 hours to the sound of torrential rain. Some nervousness that the road would be awful as a result - but it wasn't. I got up, washed and shaved when the alarm went off at 0600 hours, Gordon layed in bed and switched on the TV. I ate weet bix out of a mug and make tea for us both and drank water. Gordon switched on the computer. Surprisingly, we were ready to go just after 0700 hours and Gordon went to pick up his 'mountain bike' from the hotel reception.

Gordon returned with a cheap girl's mountain bike ...... I didn't say anything at that point as he seemed very pleased with it. At least there was no cross bar to take out his tackle when he fell off.

With Gordon loaded up with pain killers we set off for the Tip. The first 17 kilometers or so up until 'The Croc Tent' were pretty atrocious with lots of corrugations, and a fair number of sandy stretches. Problems ocurred quite early when it became clear that Gordon did not have brakes that worked! He was using his feet to slow down coming down hills. The brake pads required a spanner to adjust them which I did not have - fortunately Colin came to Gordon's rescue again and he was able to continue the journey with a reasonably safe bike.

Gordon was looking a little grey and in pain from his arm by the time we reached the Croc Tent for a break but was surprisingly uncomplaining about it. He was bleating on about his 'wasp' stings - all I could hear behind me on the track was "Owww, OOOW, OOOOOW" I think what upset him more was that I escaped being stung.

At the Croc Tent a number of tourists had disgorged from various vehicles and were very interested in what we were doing. A number of them had seen us on the road earlier. There was even someone from QUT in Brisbane who had heard about our ride through internal e-mails.

Continuing on along the track, the road conditions improved markedy, and I thought that the last section of our ride was one of the most pleasant of our trip. It took us along a relatively smooth narrow, flat track through the rainforest. It was hot and humid, probably around 30 degrees. Much excitement and anticipation when we had to do a creek crossing. A tourist bus was behind us so we had spectators when we rode through the water which was about 3-4 feet deep. Fortunately neither of us fell off. I followed the strategy of going into the water first to take any crocs by surprise leaving them the opportunity to get Gordon....if they could be bothered.

We finally arrived at the beach just 500 meters or so away from the Tip which was at the other side of a rocky climb. It is a spectacular view which we have waited a long time to see - white sand, turquoise sea, palms, islands off the coast. Today we cycled 34 kilometers (21 miles) Just one final climb to finish...

Gordon did really well to make the ride today. He was clearly in a lot of pain and it was obvious to us both that there was absolutely no way he could have possibly ridden on through the Cape after breaking his wrist. I think today eliminated any nagging doubts he may have had that there may have been an opportunity of continuing the ride after the accident. You have done tremendously Gordon and whilst you might be understandably disappointed, you have still completed a mega ride and can be very proud.....even though you winged, coughed and pontificated the whole way up Australia! Remember, there are times when rubber can be too thin, and I promise you that I would have buried you by the roadside with a bike wheel as a headstone - in later years you would have become a tourist attraction......

Once we arrived there was a discussion as to whether I should take Winona up the rock climb to the Tip. I decided that, unlike at Wilson's Prom, bikes were allowed here so I had to take her all the way to the top. There was a feeling of completion to dip Winona's wheels in the ocean and to press the button for the final transmission of the Yellowbrick tracker. Job done! We had quite a large crowd of spectators all asking us questions about our trip and what we were doing it for. We raised about $100 in donations as a result.

Just as we were about to wander back to the beach for some champagne two Austrian lads who we had heard about several days before came riding their mountain bikes down the rocks to the Tip - flash bastards! They were very good mountain bikers. I shook their hands and they said: "So you are the crazy guys who have cycled from Melbourne!" The jungle drums seem to let each cyclist know about who the other cyclists in the area are and what they are doing.

We ambled back across the rocks to enjoy ice cold champagne on the beach and a paddle - a number of people came up to talk to us including a rather attractive lady who showed a close interest in my cycling shorts, the hardness of my saddle and was particularly impressed by my physique "Oh look at his quads!" I quite enjoyed the attention and the look of despair on Gordon's face.... We then set off back to Bamaga ready for our next challenge - finding something to eat on a Sunday up here!

This afternoon was spent taking Winona apart and packing her up ready for flying out. This evening a few beers at Loyalty Beach with the Austrians and Mick, who goes for the Tip tomorrow - good luck mate!

Final thoughts and comments:

• Today I saw a Big Crocodile at the Croc Tent
• We have taken 42 days to complete the journey.
• I have cycled 5049 kilometers (3156 miles) Gordon cycled 4388 kilometers (2743 miles).
• Useful and important items of kit have been: Sugoi cycling nicks, butt cream, headtorch, iPod, camelback.
• Item of kit of the trip: Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres -neither of us had a puncture. Outstanding!
• Most unrequired item of kit: handheld satnav
• Confectionery of the trip: Jelly babies.
• Tune of the day: Handel 's Messiah- Hallelulja Chorus
• Tune of the trip: Lou Bega - Mambo No 5
• Snack of the day: The Croc Tent - snakes
• Snack of the trip: The Aussie Pie
• Meal of the trip: Seafood basket ......with salad......but not too much....salad that is......
• Toughest day: Orbost to Eden - 185 kilometers - mainly uphill
• Longest climb: 'The Big Hill' 8 kilometers - Cairns to Mount Molloy
• Steepest climb: The shocker south of the Royal National Park near Sydney
• Biggest tosser of the trip: The sausage thrower between Lennox Head and Broadbeach - especially for missing Gordon.
• Biggest disappointment: Missing the Big Banana at Coffs Harbour....how did I do that?
• Most impressive Big Thing: The Big Prawn at Ballina - should be listed and not demolished.

The ride has been a big undertaking for us both and for our families, and neither of us could have done it without their fullsome and wholehearted support. We owe them a great. Thank you - we really could not have done it without you.

Colin, we both really appreciate your support to our effort in the Cape - to have done it without you would have been an arduous, painful and difficult experience. The sight of your car at Capt Billy's Landing Track Junction was in particular very welcome - sleeping rough under road signs is fine in it's place, but not as nice as Elliot Falls. Thank you for giving me a break from having to listen to Gordon drone on.

We have been really encouraged and boosted by the support from friends everywhere who have put us up en route, called us, e-mailed us, blogged us, and texted us. This support has been tremendous and you have helped to push us along the Highway like a tail wind. Thank you.

We both benefit from having understanding employers. I would like to thank Reliance for enabling me to take up this challenge and also my friends and colleagues at Reliance for their staunch support in particular the Bunker Boys.

We don't quite know how many people have taken the time to read our blog, but from feedback we have received, it has been a real bost to think that anyone is interested in our ramblings.....especially Gordon's ramblings. I hope you enjoyed reading about our adventure.

I would like to thank everyone who has donated to the charity we are riding for, the Association For International Cancer Research (AICR), and the team at AICR and Peter Mac at Melbourne who have helped us with publicity and support in general. This cause became very personal for us when Gordon's brother Alan was diagnosed with prostate cancer at the start of our ride. We have asked that all donations we have raised goes towards AICR's Spotlight Fund which focuses on research into prostate cancer. If you have not yet donated - the website remains open for some months yet.

Finally, I would like to thank Gordon, my cycling buddy for being such good company. The trip was always better and more fun when he was riding, and we have had a lot of fun......even though he bores for Australia on most subjects. You have done tremendously, don't beat yourself up...

Tomorrow - going fishing. Looking forward to NOT wearing lycra and to wearing underpants....

25th July - Official Communique

My Lords, Ladies and Gentlemen,

I have the honour to inform you that at 1115 hours local Queensland time James Nigel Denison of Yorkshire, England accompanied by Gordon Warley Tait of Brisbane, Queensland completed the journey by bicycle and on foot from South Point, Victoria, the most southerly point in mainland Australia, to The Tip, the most northerly point in Australia.

Fair dinkum...

24th July - 18 Kms South of Jardine River Ferry to Bamaga

Nigel says..... Very strong winds and some rain during the night. The weather over the last few days has apparently been very unseasonal. Colin heard this afternoon that the Development Road had been closed where I had fallen off and had to drag Winona - there must have been more chaos yesterday. Am very pleased I decided to press on a few days ago and get ahead otherwise we would have had some problems.

After breakfast and packing everything into/onto the car we went for a swim in Elliot Falls to set us up for the day. Gordon was camera man and chief worrier. "Have you done a risk analysis on this?" - of course I hadn't! He was concerned we were going to leap onto jagged rocks and Colin would not be able to drive him about and I would not be able to get to the Tip. Entered the water in a moderately sensible and self preserving way and was then swept downstream in quite a strong current - minor gravel rash suffered only - great fun though.

Colin and Gordon dropped me off where I had stopped yesterday and went on to have coffee in Bamaga and to sort out a mountain bike for Gordon. He appears determined to do the last 35 kilometers. I hope he does not hurt himself in the process as he has nothing to prove - "Have you done a risk analysis on this Gordon?". I have told him that if he breaks his other arm he is on his own...he will have to persude someone else to get close up and personal with him for his morning ablutions - it will not be me!

Got to the Jardine River Ferry at 1155 hours to find the place locked up with a sign saying closed for lunch between 1200 - 1300 hours. The bloke on the ferry saw me and took me across as the last passenger of the morning session which was lucky. A bit of a sad place really - empty fridges, a broken fuel pump and no visible enterprise. How can they not have cans of coke and ice cream to buy at a place like this? You can buy a selection of batteries however....

Across the other side I hit an incredibly strong head wind which slowed me right down and tired me out. It also felt hot and humid today which also sapped my strenght more than I anticipated. I missed Colin's ham and salad wraps. The road was also very undulating with a surprising number of quite long hills. I was very glad to hit the tarmac and to see Colin and Gordon about 1 kilometer short of the hotel who attempted - and failed - to wind me up about going for the Tip today to see if I would rise to the challenge or not.

It was great to relax at Resort Bamaga, although I would not wish anyone to get the wrong idea about this place. It is more motelish than resortish with lots of signs warning guests to lock the doors and not to leave any property on the verandah. Great to have a few cold beers and a nice barramundi for supper.

Thoughts and comments:

• Visiting the toilet block at 0600 hours this morning I saw a shithouse bat, but not the shithouse rat.....perhaps this is what the screaming guy saw yesterday?
• The ferry fare at the Jardine River Ferry for a private vehicle is $88 and $11 for a bicycle.....no wonder they don't bother selling anything.
• There are two security guards manning the entrance to the bottle shop in Bamaga.
• Colin was offered drugs whilst standing on the hotel balcony by a passing pedestrian...
• We have stored the bikes inside and everything else is locked in the car...
• Snack of the day: top of big hill approx 4 kilometers north of Jardine River Ferry - peanut bar
• Tune of the day: Elton John - Mealticket
• Fact of the day: Diesel is $1.95 a litre in Bamaga

We have been told to expect poor road conditions tomorrow to the Tip. No problem at this stage. Big day tomorrow - starting early to avoid the headwind as much as possible.

Gordon now asleep - he will add his bit tomorrow.

Gordon says ...

It's 6.30 am on the 25th. I am just about to take my painkillers, hop on the bike, and head to the Cape. I hope this goes well ...

23rd July - Captain Billy Landing to 18 kms south of Jardine River Ferry

Nigel says ... Took a long time to de-gunge Winona last night. The chain, gears, brakes, wheels etc were all completely clogged up with orange mud. Rinsed my cycling kit, camelback and bar bag in a bowl - the water turned orange. Ate some very welcome bacon and eggs and got to bed about 2300 hours.

We had a series of debates about what I should do this morning if tthe road conditions were as bad as yesterday. I lay awake and listened to the wind and rain showers and I resolved that I would carry Winona the 2 kilometers or so out of the road works to a firm section and continue the ride from where it was possible to do so. Not to do a section with Winona wopuld mean that there was a gap in the itinerary as far as I was concerned - it was an obstacle I would just hhave to get over the best I could.

We arrived at capt Billy's Junction at about 0930 hours. We were all delighted to see that the graders had improved the conditions going north and that the conditions had dried out sufficiently to at least allow me to wheel the bike. Morale improved dramatically! No carry involved! The road I had dragged Winona along yesterday remained a quagmire of glutinous orange mud and in my opinion was impassable to bikes and probably most motorbikes. Horrible! I pulled on my stinking and mud covered kit by the roadside and set off. I was able to ride very slowly and gingerly through most of the roadworks and was soon out of the other side onto a firm road to give Colin and Gordon the thumbs up. They had waited for me to get through and now set off to see what things were like up to the Jardine River Ferry and to get a cup of coffee.

The route north of the roadworks was initially sandy with bad corrugations in a number of patches. It was also quite undualting and winding. Parts were very narrow - no more than a single lane and I had to be quite careful of traffic which does not slow down. Fortunately the traffic was much less on this road than the main Weipa Road. Later on, the road opened up to a well graded firm surface which in parts was as good as the Bruce Highway and I was able to get along quickly.

After a brief stop for a welcome snack lunch, I pedaled on to the junction with Fruit Bat Falls where I hid Winona in the undergrowth and Colin drove us all up to have a swim. No crocs here. It was a great location. The water was clear and I just dived in with my kit on leaving an orange trail behind me. Gordon took a dip as well taking his pot off for the occasion which he later regretted...

I decided to pedal on until 1600 hours and get as faar as I could to give us the option oof going for the Tip either tomorrow or Sunday. I packed it in for the day some 18 kilometers south of the Jardine River Ferry as I wanted to see Elliot Falls in the light and have a swim. I was also more tired than I realised and needed a break. The humidity takes it out of you. Today I cycled 88 kiloometers (55 miles)

On the way back to camp, Colin and I came across Mick who we met the other day. We watched him cycle through a creek. Very impressive. He joined us tonight for supper.

When we got back to camp, Colin and I left Gordon doing the cooking and went down to the Falls for a dip. We saw a remarkable sight whilst we were swimming - thousands of fruit bats flying from their roosts over the Falls. The sky was dark with bats - something similar to a Hitchcock movie.

Gordon excelled himself at cooking this evening - a really excellent roast lamb with vegetables. It was one of the meals of the trip. I had three helpings - should he be on Masterchef?

Thoughts and comments:

• A man came screaming out of the toilet block this morning saying there was a rat....I was in there earlier and completely missed out on seeing the proverbial shithouse rat.
• Showed Gordon the roadsign that he woulld have slept under last night if Colin had not been with us....He thinks I am joking!
• Gordon talking a lot about hot showers, plasma TV and Masterchef....
• Snack of the day: Junction with the Old Telegraph Track - ham wrap.
• Tune of the day:Today I hummed JC McCall's Convoy a lot - thats a big 10/4!

Can nearly smell the end now. Bamaga and a modicum of comfort tomorrow - although still have to share a room with Gordon. Have not yet decided whether to go for the top today or on Sunday.

Gordon says...

Almost there now. Nigel is doing really well, under very difficult conditions. I wish I was still pedalling, but sitting in the Landcruiser eating Mars bars, and dozing with my pillow, comes a reasonable second, I suppose.

Made the rash decision to go for a dip at Fruitbat Falls. My cast is the type that allows you to take your hand out if necessary. A dumb idea - for two minutes of splashing around, I had three hours of throbbing pain. OK now though.

A fine night sat around eating dinner and drinking wine with a stray long-distance cyclist called Mick. Only one more night under canvas, and then a few days of relative comfort before heading back to see my family - something I'm really looking forward to. I arrive in Brisbane at 7.30 am Wednesday morning, first tutorial at 9.00 am. Jeez ...

I have decided to try and ride from Bamaga to the tip of Cape York on Sunday. I've got my drugs ready ...

22nd July - Frenchman's Track to Captain Bily Landing turnoff

Nigel says... An eventful day...

It rained during the night. We all slept in the one tent to save time breaking camp this morning. Once again Gordon claimed sleep deprivation. Checked the road when I got up – it looked to be fine which was good. Pulled my wet and stinking kit on again and had breakfast and was on the road at 0700 hours.

Progress was good to the Moreton Telegraph Station. The road was good with few corrugations. Moreton Telegraph Station is a wide open area just next to the Wenlock River. A nice place which is run by a really friendly and helpful bloke, Ron, who gave us advice about routes and so on and also free coke and coffee. We decided that I would push on and try to reach the Kennedy Memorial on the Development Road and then Colin would pick me up and take me on to Elliot Falls where we would stay for two nights. The theory was that there were toilets and nice swimming and it was a more pleasant place than the side of the road or the various Roadhouses
.
Whilst at Moreton Telegraph Station we met up with Mick, from the Gold Coast, who was cycling the Old Telegraph Track. I loaded up with some bits and pieces to eat en route and agreed to meet up with the guys at Bramwell Junction. Colin and Gordon would test the Old Telegraph Track as I still thought it might be possible to do a stretch of it and save some distance.

Got to Bramwell Junction and had a burger with Mick who arrived just after me. When Colin and Gordon arrived it was clear that they had had an adventure. Trying to get into Palm Creek on the Old Telegraph Track the running boards of the car had been badly dented. The strong advice was that I should stick to the road where progress would be straightforward……Whilst there we heard some stories about problems on the road with vehicles spinning out of control where the road graders were working.

Peddled off into a headwind and up a number of long gradual ascents. Stopped every hour and ate something and drank a lot of water. The wind was blowing up and there were dark clouds. It was trying to rain, and had obviously rained in certain parts en route, but no real problems. Finally got to the Kennedy Memorial at 1600 hours. No Colin. Decided to push on to the Captain Billy Junction another 11 kilometers up the road.

Coming down a hill a bloke stopped his car and told me to “watch out for the muddy bank mate!”. I went on quite cautiously. The road surface was very flat, graded and shiny. There had been some rain and the road was sticky but rideable. Several kilometers on, the bike suddenly and without warning slipped out from underneath me and I went crashing to the floor. I was completely covered in mud and bashed my right arm. Good job I was wearing a helmet. I got up and found myself standing on a mud skating ring. It was impossible to ride the bike. I began pushing. I could only push the bike for a few yards before mud clogged the wheels, chain and brakes. I had to stop to free them up every few paces. It was one of the hardest pushes I have done, and by the time I saw the very welcome sight of Colin’s vehicle I was absolutely covered in mud and the bike was un-rideable anyway.

The road graders who were there said that it had rained very heavily last night, and at least three motorbikers had come off together with numerous vehicles who had gone into the ditches.

We had to wrap the bike up in a tarpaulin and put it onto the roof. I then had to completely strip and put all my clothes in a bin liner. I had a towel and an old shirt to get back to camp. Colin helped me to wash off my arm and to dress the wound and eventually we got back to Elliot Falls in darkness at 1920 hours. Thanks Colin for assistance above and beyond the call of duty! So much for swimming in the falls! Gordon a little anxious about what might have happened by this stage. Today I cycled, pushed and dragged 137 kilometers.

A very welcome meal back at camp and some rehydration.

Thoughts and comments:
• Saw 3 pigs crossing the road this afternoon
• Saw an enormous wild pig this afternoon after loading the bike onto the car
• Saw what appeared to be a vulture this afternoon – bit ominous…
• There were no warning signs at all about the road conditions today
• My marmite shirt is now mainly orange
• Snack of the day: Bramwell Burger – Bramwell Junction
• Tune of the day: Today I hummed “Guide Me O Thou Great Redeemer” – must be loosing it again, and I’m definately not Welsh. Maybe I should have gone on the Old Telegraph Track???
• Fact of the Day: Moreton Telegraph Station was established in 1883 by JR Bradford.

Hard day expected tomorrow as Colin drops me back off in the mud. Hopefully only about 2 kilometers of pushing......

Gordon says ...

Cheered up a bit today. Colin went mad in his 4wd, and smashed the shit out of his $90,000 landcruiser - fabulous. It hurt a bit when we crashed into things, but I had my wrist resting on a pillow, so that helped a bit. The things Colin will do to make me feel better ... what a champ ...

Have settled into my role as Nigel's flunky a bit better too. One of us has to get to the tip, and I have to say, the going is REALLY tough. Tough but stupid, Nigel is just the man to make it.

Still think about riding from Bamaga north ... the more I drink, the more plausible it ges.

21st July - Coen to Frenchman's Track

Nigel says....Nice accommodation last night with pleasant and helpful hosts, but unfortunately the most uncomfortable bed of the trip. I think the bedsprings had collapsed. Got up in the night and found a cane toad in the hall....

Donation from Flo who works for the Aboriginal Land Council last night - must have been Gordon's witty and uplifting conversation that inspired her.....or perhaps not. Thank you Flo.

An early start again with reveille at 0600 hours. Had breakfast with Colin and some of the other guests who were going out to fix up security screens on various buildings. Gordon still comatose. I know I keep going on about the mornings being the best time for cycling up here, but rolling along the 25 kilometers of bitumen to Coen airport as the sun was rising, temperature perfect, and the birds singing just reinforces my view. Saw an enormous Brahmin bull on the road and gave him as wide a berth as possible....he was a big lad with lots of equipment dangling.

After the airport, the road turned to dirt again. The road is quite varied. This morning it was very wide, sandy and flat. Later on it became narrower with steep cllimbs in and out of creek beds. The main thing, however, with the exception of just a few spots, the road condition is so much better than before and I was able to make good progress.

I got to Archer River Roadhouse by 1100 hours where we had a break. Everyone on the road is very friendly - lots of waves and thumbs up. One guy drew alongside me and asked me where I had come from and what I was doing. He could not quite believe we had come from south of Melbourne in 5 weeks. "Bugger me! You're bloody mad! Good on yer mate!"

Stopped for lunch and Colin's catering gave me a real boost and I was able to pedal beyond the planned destination which was the junction with the Telegraph Road. It had been sunny for most of the day, but then this afternoon it became overcast and started to drizzle - this was quite good as it dampened down the dust and kept me cool and fortunately did not affect the road conditions. It has been very humid.

As I pedalled north, Colin and Gordon went to find a campsite by the road. The road north here is much quieter and more narrow than the main drag to Weipa. It was also pretty smooth for a dirt road. The iPod was back for this stretch. Gordon had selected a good campsite in an open area. On arrival, I had a strip wash in a bowl. I was covered in orange dust. Although it was still drizzling, I felt a whole lot better for the wash. Today I cycled 147 kilometers (92 miles) - quite pleased to get the contingency distance under the belt.

Tonight Gordon cooked Moroccan Chicken - very tasty. Colin is trying to contact home with his satellite phone complete with personally manufactured ariel....it worked!

A good day.

Thoughts and comments:

• There do not appear to be emus at the Archer River Roadhouse, but there are a number of fine looking horses.
• I have absolutely no doubt as to the moral virtue of the girls who serve at Roadhouses in this part of Queensland. Gordon thinks otherwise....
• Fact of the day: The telegraph system in the Cape was started in 1886. The southern section began at Fairview where we stayed the other day.
• Snack of the day: Archer River Roadhouse - Archer Burger(burger, egg, salad, cheese, bacon, pineapple)
• Tune of the Day: Today I was humming The Blues Brothers - Everybody Needs Somebody

Tomorrow we have planned to stay at Bramwell Junction but intend to go further if possible.

Gordon says ...

I'm not sure at which point during the last month and a half, for Nigel, the blog changed from being an adjunct to the bike ride, to it being the other way around - but change it did. The masterpiece above took over three hours, for Christ's sake ...

A further gripe. Nigel keeps writing ' Gordon still comatose', 'Gordon feel asleep when we got to the motel' etc. All kidding aside, the only time I can sleep is when Nigel doesn't. I think I am now in the final stages of severe sleep deprivation. In contrast to Nigel's happy 8--9 hours sleep per night, I am getting by on between 3 and 4, which is just not enough. Fair enough, I think I'm probably quite a light sleeper, but Nigel snores so loudly, that ear plugs and two pillows over my head make no difference at all. Day after day, I've woken up having hardly slept at all - staring down the barrel of 150 kms on the road, only to face the same thing the next day ... and the next. The day I crashed, I don't think I had slept at all. In fact, that morning, a guy at the campsite complained to Nigel in the morning about his snoring ... and he was camped 10m away, inside a campervan... yes, INSIDE a soundproofed van ... and Nigel was still deafening - something like an elphant seal being skinned alive. Imagine being three feet away from that, night after night. As the guy spoke, Nigel loooked like he was sucking the world's bitterest lemon. Did Colin and I laugh ... Now I realise Nigel doesn't do it on purpose, but I feel I need to put the record straight on a line of blog humour that makes me look like a lazy slob.

As the above rant probably indicates, I am currently finding it a bit hard no longer being a functioning part of the ride. My role now that of making sandwiches for Nigel as he heads for the top end. Not quite the finish I had in mind.

Do you want tomato on that Nigel?

20th July - Musgrave Roadhouse to Coen

Nigel says.....A good night's sleep at the Musgrave Roadhouse. A peculiar feeling setting off by myself again. Gordon comatose when I left. Colin joined me for an early breakfast at 0615 hours - I started pedalling across the airfield and cricket pitch with the mist hanging at 0645 hours.

It is great cycling early in the morning. It is cool. There was hardly any traffic - just the road mending guys who were in the next door rooms at the roadhouse who gave me a friendly wave as they trundled north. The bush was noisy and the sun was just coming up - the road wasn't that bad to start with either.

I soon got into the routine of trying to find the best path through the corrugations. Early on it wasn't too bad. After a couple of hours I was faced with a 2 kilometer climb of 8% which was fine as it was on bitumen. I decided to be a bit kinder to myself today and have a brief rest every hour, and I think I was better hydrated and less tired than yesterday - certainly early on. No need to take myself to the cleaners every day!

The route today was more narrow and had more twists and bends. This meant that I could not see the oncoming traffic miles ahead and had to be much more ready to get across the road to avoid oncoming traffic. There were also lots of creeks to get across which meant steep descents and short sharp climbs out. The road was mostly ok, but there was one dreadful section where I had to get off and push several times as it was so sandy and corrugated - really awful cycling conditions.

Gordon and Colin arrived at 1100 hours to give me some cold water. Good to see Gordon looking and sounding better. By that stage I only had 52 kilometers to get to coen, so I was pretty pleased with the progress. I batted on until 1300 hrs when the guys met up with me for lunch.

I drank quite a lot of water today, but even so around midday the heat must have been around 30 degrees and it became a little tiring. The humidity also takes you unawares unless you are careful. Fortunately, after I left the guys to do a little off road winching practice, the road was pretty good and I quickly got to Coen arriving at the accommodation at about 1530 hours.

Accommodation is comfortable and the hosts pleasant. Coen is an interesting place..... Everyone knew Gordon had been to the medical centre the previous day. We dined at the Sexchange Hotel as the only other eating establishment, 'Grunters Beastro' is shut - good meal. Gordon bored for Australia on a range of issues....politics....philosophy... sex in ancient Sparta...tequila...tribal customs in Borneo...radishment (look it up - not sure if he is telling the truth or not, always difficult to tell!)

Thoughts and comments:

• The Sexchange Hotel used to be the Exchange Hotel......
• As a result of seeing me on the road today, one of the young road fixers now has a bet of $250 with his mates that he can cover the 109 kilometers from Musgrave roadhouse to Coen in 4 hours- he was a really good cyclist but is out of condition and was pissed - money safe for his mates I think!
• They sell two flavours of slushi in Coen....
• Snack of the day: 56 kilometers north of Musgrave Roadhouse in the bush - a manadrin orange.
• Tune of the day: Today I was humming 'My Old Man Says Follow The Van' - definately need to get out more...
• They are grading the section of road south of Laura where Gordon fell off today! It is being renamed 'Gordon's Landing'.

Tomorrow going to a road junction somewhere north of Archer River Roadhouse.

No more bog entries possible until Bamaga unfortunately.

Gordon says ...

Feeling pretty depressed really. Drove around all day like the Queeen of England in Colin's Landcruiser - which was great in itself (but which still hurt a lot, in spite of excellent suspension, such is the crappyness of the road) and Colin was fine company - but I felt rotten each time we pulled up next to Nigel to give him food and water. Nothing much I can about it I suppose.

Late drunken news flash: have had a small idea which has cheered me up a bit. The nurse here in Coen gave me six days worth of heavy drugs to get over the initial pain of the injury. I've decided (in consultation with Nigel and Colin, who have given tentative approval to the plan) to take the first two days quota, and save the rest. Then, when I get to Bamaga, take anything I've got left, and see if I can ride the 34 kms to the tip. Sure, I'll be completely zonked, but I may be able to cope with the pain suffiently to get there. That way, at least I'll finish the trip on my bike - not the same as doing the whole thing, but better that nothing. I'll let you know how it goes in a few days.